Even
with a well-constructed swimming pool outfitted with the best equipment
and the finest filtration and circulation system, much of the success in
maintaining a safe, attractive and pleasant-to-swim-in pool depends on the
timing and amount of chemical additions.
Just because the water looks blue and clear does not mean that the
water is balanced.
The
interior of the pool cures 60% in the first 30 days and remainder (40%)
cures in the next 10 to 12 months.
The beauty and health of your pool’s interior surfaces is
dependent on the proper maintenance of water chemistry.
Therefore a large part of this section of the manual has been
dedicated to water chemistry.
In
the equipment section, some correlations have been drawn between the human
body and your pool equipment to help illustrate the importance/function of
the basic pool operation (i.e. Control System vs. “The Brain,” The
Pool Pump vs. “The Heart,” The Pool Filter vs. “The Kidneys and
Liver,” and The Plumbing Lines vs. “The Arteries”).
The Pool/Spa Structure and The Water is “The Stomach” – the
interior surface is the lining and the water is the fluid that passes
through it.
The
condition of the water has a dramatic impact on the appearance of the
interior surfaces.
There are two (2) components that affect the condition of the
water:
It
is important to start with balanced water. Take a sample of your water
in a CLEAN plastic container to your retail pool center. The sample
should be from the deep end of the pool, about 18 inches below the
surface, away from the return fittings. Once your pool water is balanced,
you can be assured that you are getting the most out of your chemical
treatment program.
Proper
maintenance of pool water, within normal pool parameters, reduces the need
for specialty products to eliminate algae and discolorations.
A
test kit has been provided to ensure the alignment of your pool water
chemistry. Tests can be conducted for four components:
-
Chlorine
Residual
-
pH
Level
-
Acid
Demand
-
Total
Alkalinity
Regular
and proper use of your test kit and appropriate chemical application will
protect your pool surface, equipment and swimmers’ health.
Test kits should not be exposed to prolonged sunlight, other pool
chemicals or extreme temperature.
These
are the primary chemicals that should be checked weekly.
In reviewing the “Proper Ranges of Water Chemistry” chart
below, there are some additional tests that should be done periodically.
The initial cost of a test kit to test these other items as well as
the yearly replacement of the reagents is cost prohibitive for most pool
owners.
NOTE:
PLEASE READ ALL LABELS CAREFULLY before adding anything to your
pool water.
At
this point, you are probably thinking that you need a degree in chemistry
to take care of your pool. In
actuality, you will use other people to do the legwork in providing you
with the test results (our retail centers will give you the actual
numbers). This will allow you
to evaluate the condition of your water and directions on application of
chemicals.
NOTE:
Due to the gravity of the impact that water chemistry has on the
appearance of your investment, please spend a little time in this area.
The
discolorations/stains, deterioration, pitting and scaling of interior
surfaces do not happen over night, but through long periods of neglect.
These conditions, if not dealt with, will become visual over a
period of time on the pool surface.
In
an ideal situation, a good rule of thumb is to replace 1/3 of your pool
water each year. The logic
here is that these chemicals (Calcium, Cyanuric Acid, Total Dissolved
Solids, Iron or Copper) levels that would be detrimental to your interior
surface would never get high or cause algae problems.
Yes, you do replace some of your water through evaporation and
backwashing, but this is not enough to dilute these levels.
For
your convenience, below is a liquid conversion table that can be used in
conjunction with the chemical tables that follow:
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CHLORINE
The
most commonly used disinfectant in swimming pools is chlorine – in its
natural state it is a gas. This gas is hard to handle and very dangerous.
Combined with other elements, chlorine gas produces a safe, effective
means of combating bacteria, algae and other organic wastes. There are
several types of chlorine compounds, both organic and inorganic.
Inorganic
Chlorine – Not Stabilized
1.
CHLORINE GAS –
gas; unstable, resulting in a rapid loss of sanitizing power.
2.
CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE – granular; will not dissolve completely in
water, can contribute to a scaling condition.
3.
SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE – liquid chlorine; unstable, resulting in a
rapid loss of sanitizing power.
Organic
Chlorine – Stabilized
1.
DI-CHLOR – granular; fast dissolving.
2.
TRI-CHLOR – tablet; solid form in various sizes, large and
small sticks and rings.
Organic
chlorines have built-in protection against the sun’s ability to take
chlorine out of your pool. This insures you of continually having chlorine
in your pool water.
When
chlorine is first added to your pool, it must satisfy an initial demand.
This simply means that you must destroy all bacteria, algae and organic
wastes before maintaining a sufficient level of chlorine protection. This
level is called your chlorine residual or free chlorine. A
good level to maintain would be between 1.0 – 3.0 ppm. Lower levels will
not protect the swimmer and high levels will cause skin irritation as well
as a waste of Costly chemicals.
Temperature,
swimmer load, and debris carried into your pool by wind and rain, will all
affect your chlorine level.
NOTE:
The use of Chlorine Gas can void your plaster warranty.
Chlorine gas is very corrosive with an extremely low pH (1.1).
The life of your plaster can be cut from ½ to 2/3 as well as
discolor the plaster surface. The problem lies with the proper balancing
of the pool water after treatment, and the major swings in pH.
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SHOCK
THERAPY
Whenever
people talk about shocking a pool, you can be sure they are not talking
about electricity. “Shocking a pool” involves adding an extra dose of
chlorine, over and above what is needed on a regular daily basis, to
balance and sanitize the water.
Most
suppliers advise owners to super chlorinate their pool every 7-14 days
during the swimming season. Until you have experience with water
chemistry, this is a good guideline; the importance of super chlorination
can only be fully appreciated when the consequences of NOT doing so are
experienced.
Sanitation
is the key reason for super chlorinating; water is cleansed of algae,
bacteria, dirt, swimmer residue and any other organic matter that may have
entered the pool.
Determine
the percentage of available chlorine from the label of the product
you are using (Cal Hypo is 65% and Di-Chlor is 90%). Use the chart below to determine the appropriate amount of
chlorine for shocking.
Note:
A typical shock to just raise the chlorine level from zero, not an
excessively algae covered pool, would be approximately ½ this dosage
(I.E. pool with 20,000 gallons and using Cal-Hypo-65% available chlorine =
7.7# per chart above/2 = 3.75# approximately.
With
experience, a connection between the recommended chlorine application and
a conversely low or marginal chlorine reading will indicate a deficiency
of chlorine to address the algae, bacteria, dirt, swimmer wastes and any
other organic matter present in the pool water.
Here
are some guidelines to help determine when to super chlorinate or shock
your pool:
-
AT
POOL START UP.
Even when covered during the winter, pools will accumulate
leaves, twigs, dirt and other debris.
Super chlorination helps burn up this organic matter and
balances the water added.
-
FOLLOWING
A COLD SPELL.
When you have left the pool covered or un-circulated for an
extended period of time, it is always a good idea to treat the water.
Under these circumstances, pH tends to drift; water goes out of
balance and algae may tend to multiply.
-
WHEN
CHLORINE TESTS WEAK. There is no substitute for testing chlorine and
pH on a DAILY basis.
When chlorine residual drops to zero or below, pool water needs
an extra shot of chlorine.
-
WHENEVER
POOL WATER IS LESS THAN CRYSTAL CLEAR. This condition is generally the
first visual sign that the water needs a boost of chlorine. If you
cannot see the bottom clearly or water appears the least bit cloudy,
the water chemistry is out-of-balance or algae are starting to grow.
Shocking is the fastest way to restore water clarity.
NOTE:
The cloudiness in this case could also be a result of a damage pool
filter or poor circulation (pool filter may need to be backwash or broken
down and the elements clean).
-
AFTER
A HEAVY WIND OR RAIN.
Summer storms introduce dirt, leaves and bacteria into the pool
requiring an extra shot of chlorine to sanitize and neutralize these
materials.
-
FOLLOWING
A LARGE NUMBER OF SWIMMERS.
A heavy swimming load means extra body oils, perspiration,
suntan lotions, ammonia, dirt and grass clippings in the pool.
Bathing suits previously worn in lakes can introduce algae into
the water.
Treatment is needed to sanitize wastes and ensure that algae
are eliminated.
-
FOLLOWING
YOUNG SWIMMERS.
You cannot control children who are not “pool trained” so
sanitize with an extra dose of chlorine.
-
WHEN
WATER TEMPERATURES ARE HIGH.
Whenever the pool thermometer climbs above 85 degrees
Fahrenheit, water requires frequent treatment; bright sunlight quickly
burns up maintenance levels of chlorine.
-
WHEN
CHLORINE SMELLS STRONGLY ALL AROUND THE POOL.
This strong odor is caused by chloramines that form where free
chlorine is insufficient. Before you treat, adjust pH into the 7.4
-7.6 range.
The dosage you use to SUPER CHLORINATE is different from that
added on a daily basis.
-
Whenever
SUPER CHLORINATING or SHOCK TREATING your pool is required, introduce
the treatment AFTER SUNDOWN.
This prevents chlorine from being destroyed by ultraviolet
rays.
Make
Sure you run your filter pump at least two to six hours after treatment.
This will insure that the chemicals are diluted and prevent the
possibility of chlorine sitting in a concentrated from on the plaster.
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pH
The
term “pH” is used to express the alkalinity or the acidity of pool
water. On a scale of 0-14, with 0 being acidic and 14 being alkaline, 7 is
neutral. The ideal level for a plaster pool is 7.4 – 7.8. A low pH
reading, indicating an acidic condition, will result in damage to the pool
interior surface and equipment and will cause accelerated chlorine
dissipation. A high pH reduces the operation level of chlorine and can
cause cloudiness, scaling, algae and bacteria growth. Imbalance of pH will
cause swimmers’ eye irritation. Use MURIATIC ACID to control high levels
of pH. Use pH PLUS or Soda Ash to control low levels of pH.
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TOTAL
ALKALINITY
Total
alkalinity is the measure of pH regulating minerals that act as buffering
agents in your water. In plaster pools, under normal conditions, a
measurement of 80-120 ppm is ideal. Total alkalinity should be adjusted
before pH. ALKALINITY PLUS or Sodium Bicarbonate will raise total
alkalinity; MURIATIC ACID will lower your total alkalinity.
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WATER
HARDNESS
Another
aspect of balanced water has to do with hardness. Certain “metals”
need to be present in pool water to satisfy the water’s aggressive need
for metals.
This is measured in terms of calcium and magnesium.
If this demand is not met, your pool water will seek out its’
needs, attacking and corroding your equipment and pool walls.
To correct for low hardness levels a CALCIUM HARDNESS INCREASER is
used. Follow the label directions.
The desired range is 200-250 ppm in plaster pools.
If
high levels of hardness persist, other problems are encountered.
Cloudy water and scaling of your pool walls and equipment can
occur. To
help keep high hardness levels in line, a STAIN, SCALE or METAL CONTROL is
used.
The
only means of decreasing the calcium hardness is to dilute with fresh
water.
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BALANCED
WATER NEEDS TO BE STABILIZED
Chlorine
is susceptible to rapid decomposition from the sun’s ultra-violet rays.
In order to improve chlorine’s active life and reduce this wasteful
loss, the addition of CHLORINE CONDITIONER (cyanuric acid) is recommended.
A 30-50 ppm is recommended to maintain the proper level. Follow the
directions on the label precisely. This treatment is usually necessary
only once when in conjunction with stabilized chlorine.
The
only means of decreasing cyanuric acid is to dilute with fresh water.
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METALS
Iron,
copper and magnesium can enter your pool through various sources - copper
based algaecides, the erosion of metal components of your pool equipment
or the pool interior fixture’s and make-up water. Sometimes the mere
addition of one of the controlling pool chemicals previously mentioned
above will cause these metals to come out of solution and stain your pool.
Most poolside test kits will not test for metals. This is why it is so
important to take a water sample in and let your retail pool center
balance your pool water.
The use of a sequestering agent should be used to prevent the
precipitation of these metals on the pool surface.
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ALGAE
CONTROL
Algae
comes in several forms.
Algae are single-cell plants containing chlorophyll and are one the
hardiest and most widespread living organisms on this plant.
It can be introduced by rain, wind or even a swimmer’s swimming
suit. Algae
requires warm water, sunlight and carbon dioxide to grow – and pool
water has the potential of providing just such an environment.
There
are three (3) main categories of algae found in pool water:
-
Green
Algae – usually floating algae, but sometimes clings to walls.
Pool water becomes turbid with a green growth that renders the
pool uninviting and dangerous to use by making it difficult to see the
bottom of the pool.
Before green coloration appears, sides of the pool have a
slippery feel, water becomes hazy and exhibits a high chlorine demand.
-
Mustard
(Yellow) Alage – appears as a yellow powdery deposition on the pool,
usually on the shady side.
Once established, it is chlorine-resistant and can exist in the
presence of 3-5 ppm Free Chlorine.
-
Black
(blue-Green) Algae – evident by the formation of
dime-to-quarter-size black (or blue-green) spots, tenaciously adhering
to the pool’s surfaces.
Black algae forms a layered structure where the first layers,
which may be killed by chlorine, protect under layers form further
destruction.
Black algae, like mustard algae, is also chlorine-resistant.
When
the sanitizer levels are allowed to drop or deplete, algae spores (seeds)
will germinate.
Within 12 hours, a pool can be completely inundated with green
algae.
As
with any problem, the best cure is prevention. It is recommended to use a
good algaecide, along with super chlorination, to control algae.
Follow the directions on the label.
The algaecide will work in conjunction with the chlorine to destroy
the algae and help prevent reoccurrences.
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HANDLING & STORAGE OF POOL
CHEMICALS
-
All
chlorine bearing compounds are oxidizing agents and can cause FIRE or
EXPLOSIONS if they come in contact with organic compounds such as
household cleaners and paint materials – STORE CHEMICALS
APPROPRIATELY.
-
Chlorine
is irritating to the skin and eyes; therefore, contact should be
avoided. Do not inhale fumes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling any
chemicals.
-
Do
not smoke when around chemicals. Some products have explosive fumes.
-
Chlorine
compounds should be stored in a cool and dry place, out of sunlight,
and certainly out of reach of children and pets.
-
Chemicals
used to control pH such as dry acids are considered dangerous and
contact should be avoided.
-
All
labels related to pool chemicals should be read carefully and strictly
adhered to. Do not exceed dosages recommended; more is not better and
can be dangerous to swimmers.
-
Keep
chemical containers closed when not in use.
-
Empty
containers should be disposed of immediately. Never allow them to
remain in the storage area.
-
Do
not mix ANY pool chemicals together unless package instructions direct
this. Add chemicals to pool ONE AT A TIME.
-
Measuring
cups should be plastic, glass or enamel. Each chemical should have a
designated cup. DO NOT USE CHEMICAL MEASURING CUPS FOR ANY OTHER
MATERIAL.
-
Only
prescribed chlorine cartridges should be used. Possible explosions can
occur if these cartridges are refilled with the wrong chemicals.
-
Automatic
chlorinators should not be installed in un-vented rooms. NEVER ADD
GRANULAR CHLORINE TO AUTOMATIC CHLORINATORS – THIS IS A VERY
EXPLOSIVE SITUATION.
-
All
spills should be washed thoroughly with water. Avoid pouring spillage
into re-useable containers as this could result in fire.
-
Be
familiar with first aid instructions on all chemical containers. Have
emergency medical and poison control center phone numbers handy at all
times.
Always
add chemicals to water NEVER THE REVERSE.
Do
not store chemicals in your garage, as the fumes released can cause rust
to build up on metallic items in your garage (I.E. car bumpers, garage
door tracks, tools, shelves, Etc.).
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